Fly Fishing Devon:
Casting Tips and Future Lesson Planning
These
notes are designed to highlight the main points covered in your lesson
and help you plan further lessons with Fly Fishing Devon.
Please do not feel
intimidated by the long list of things that can go wrong with a cast.
Fly fishing is fun and it is important to keep a sense of proportion.
At the end of the session, your instructor will highlight particular
things that you should
concentrate on to improve your casting. You can also use this list to
decide on which cast or problem you would like to focus on in your next
session with us.
Preparing to cast
- drop or 'catapult
cast' line onto water
- pull line off reel,
drop it at your feet
- rest line across the
palm of your non-casting hand
- hold rod tip close to
water surface
- vigorously
sweep rod tip from side-to-side
- which will
pull line out of rod tip
The
roll cast
Roll
cast uses:
- when
back cast is obstructed
- roll
cast a deeply sunk fly line onto the surface prior to an overhead cast
- after
line has been pulled off the reel and placed on the water in a heap
- after
casting upstream and retrieving slack line
- after
dibbling the fly back towards the boat when reservoir / loch fishing
- it
is a relatively safe cast - the fly is normally in front of the angler
Roll
cast limitations:
- distance
that can be cast is limited
- limited
change of direction (maximum angle less than 45 degrees - beware of the
"Bloody L" - Simon Gawesworth's term for an " L" shape in the anchor of
line lying on the water surface after forming the 'D' loop)
- relatively inaccurate
- the
fly is drowned as the line is drawn back to create the 'D' loop; this
is a limitation when fishing the dry fly
Roll
cast key concepts mentioned during the session
- face
the target
- start
with rod tip on water surface
- draw
line back slowly when creating 'D' loop and anchor point
- align
'D' loop and anchor point in line with target - the 180 degree
principle - anchor and 'D' loop should lie along a straight line
- direct
forward cast inside anchor point - if line crosses it will usually
tangle
- ways
of expressing the movement required in the forward cast include: "smooth
acceleration to an abrupt
stop", thump your hand down on a counter to demand attention from a
bartender, power snap, pop/stop, twitch, flick, whump.
- a
"bloody L" in the line will interfere with the forward cast landing
straight, bear this in mind when changing direction
- raise
/ lower the rod-tip stop point on the forward cast to vary landing
position
- aim
high when shooting line
Roll
cast key words may be used by your
instructor during the session.
- lift
rod vertically to 45 degrees
- swing
around
the body to create the 'D' loop
- check
position
of:
- line
(D loop)
- hand
- thumb vertical
- rod
- at 45 degrees to hand
- anchor
point
- tap
- calls to mind the idea of tapping a nail into a wall in front of the
caster, other terms include 'power snap'
- stop
Roll
cast faults, causes and corrections
- line tangles.
- Caused
by forward cast
being directed over / across the anchor point. The forward cast should
be aimed inside the anchor point i.e. the line lying on the water in
front of the caster
- line piles in front of
caster.
- Caused
by forward cast starting with too much acceleration before
ending too slowly.
- Or, power applied too late in the cast causing line to
unfurl / run out across the surface of the water.
- line does not completely
unroll.
- Caused
by insufficient energy / snap / power in the forward cast
- the line hits the caster.
- The
line is lying too close to the caster's shoulder - it should be
about half the rod length away from the shoulder.
- Or, the rod is being brought forward too close to the
caster - tilt the rod off from the vertical so that the tip of the rod
is just inside the straight line made by the 'D' loop and the anchor
point.
- Or, a wind is blowing the line onto the casters rod arm.
Advanced
roll casting
- increasing
distance by shooting line
- dealing
with wind
- into
the casting shoulder
- head
/ tail wind
- dynamic
roll cast / jump roll / forward Spey cast
- changing
direction
Overhead
cast / pick up and lay down cast
Overhead
cast uses:
- achieve
distance
- achieve
accuracy
- lengthen
line through false casting
- dries
the fly through false casting
Overhead
cast limitations:
- requires
sufficient room behind and overhead
- potentially
dangerous - the fly passes behind the angler
Overhead
cast key words may be used by your
instructor during the session.
- lift
- rod vertically until line clears water, do not allow slack to develop
- tap
- back and upwards along a diagonal line
- stop
- check rod position; if necessary allow line to fall to
ground
- pause
- to allow the line to unroll behind you
- tap
- stop
Overhead
cast concepts
- start
the back / up cast with the tip of the rod on the water surface
- accelerate
smoothly to a firm stop
- stop
the rod on the back cast when the fly leaves the water
- pause
to allow the line to unroll behind you
- on
the back / up cast think of the rod tip traveling up the wall of a
house, and then up a pitched roof
- you
may find it helps to concentrate on one thing at a time. For example,
concentrate on the back cast even if it means allowing it to fall to
the ground behind you
- concentrate
on how the rod and line feel when you make a good cast - try to
remember that feeling so you will recognise for yourself when you make
a good cast
- you
don't need a rod to practice your casting. 'Pantomime' casts and engage
in 'mental rehearsal' between casting sessions
- expect
things to go wrong, particularly at the start of each session.
Persevere
and your performance will soon 'warm up'
- be
prepared to seem to go forward two steps and back one step.
- finish
each session with an element you are good at
Overhead
cast faults, causes and corrections
- line
fails to straighten on the forward cast. Can be
caused by problems on the back cast or forward cast.
- Back cast problems:
- rod
tip raised too far off water surface at start of cast;
- wrist
break causing line to drop on the back cast - this is a common problem
- pause
is too long causing line to drop on back cast;
- forward cast problems:
- weak
or absent 'power stroke' / 'acceleration to a stop' on forward cast
- too
much force on forward cast causing line to bounce back after the stop -
line does not land straight on the water ;
- shooting
line before the 'stop' on the forward cast - line does not land
straight on the water ;
- whip crack noise during
forward cast;
- insufficient
length of pause after back cast before commencing forward cast;
- or
caused by insufficient power on the back cast which results in the line
not straightening, consequently the line is drawn around the 'U' at
great speed.
- may
cause loss of fly
- line hits caster on back
cast:
- caused
by wind onto casting arm, or rod not tilted off to the side,
- or
tip not on water at start of cast causing slack in the line, or pausing
between lift and application of power causing slack to develop,
- line
hits caster on forward cast:
- caused
by low back cast, due to starting forward cast with too much power,
- or the line is too heavy for the rod, or too much line
in the back cast, or the rod is 'sloppy' all of which can cause the
line to drop on the back cast
- 'whooshing' noise during
back cast:
- caused
by too rapid an acceleration during the early phases of the back cast,
look out for the line being ripped off the water surface and throwing
up spray.
line
lands with a splash:
- caused
by aiming too low on the forward cast,
- or
releasing line too soon on the shoot, or 'bowing' the body towards
the water on the forward cast,
- or
starting the forward cast with the rod hand held too high e.g. above
the head,
- tailing loops: caused by the tip of the
rod deviating from 'the straight line path' due to too much power, try
relaxing the grip on the rod. There
are a number of casting faults that result in tailing loops:
- FAULT:
stationary elbow with snapping wrist, CURE raise elbow on back cast,
and lower the elbow on forward cast;
- FAULT:
carrying elbow straight back and forwards on back and forward cast,
CURE raise elbow on back cast, and lower the elbow on forward cast;
- FAULT:
back cast too high, forward cast too low, CURE: lower the back cast
- FAULT:
forward power stroke started too late causing tailing loop on forward
cast, CURE: start power stroke sooner in the forward cast
- FAULT:
punching the forward cast by moving the arm forward, CURE don't make
the forward cast straight forwards.
- FAULT:
overpowering the forward stroke, CURE use less force on the forward cast
- FAULT:
forward power stroke made too soon, CURE allow the
back cast to unroll
- line twists: symptom is a series of
twists in the line which appear between the reel and the stripping
guide (first rod ring), caused by the back and forward casts not being
made in the same vertical plane. The rod tip travels in an elliptical
path.
False
cast
False
cast uses
- drying
the fly
- lengthening
line
- changing
direction - in steps of about 45 degrees
False
cast limitations:
- excessive
false casting scares fish
False
cast key words may be used by your
instructor during the session
Shooting
line
Shooting
line uses:
- increasing
length of line outside the rod tip
Shooting
line key words may be used by your
instructor during the session
Shooting
line faults, causes and corrections
- line
fails to shoot, caused by releasing the line before stopping the rod on
the forward cast
- shooting
line before the 'stop' on the forward cast - line does not land
straight on the water
Reach
cast
Reach
cast uses:
- use
a reach cast if a fish is lying in relatively slack water on the other
side of a strong current. Reach to the left or right according to the
direction of the main current.
- use
a reach cast to avoid 'lining' fish that may be lying between you and
your target fish
- use
a reach cast to present a fly to a fish lying 'behind' an obstacle
between you and the fish
- when
sea trout fishing with a 'wake fly' in a slow current, a reach cast can
be used to create drag.
Reach
cast key words may be used by your
instructor during the session
- shoot
line into forward cast
- reach
Slack
line cast
Slack
line cast uses:
- allows
for 'drag free drift' e.g. when fishing a dry fly downstream. The
current will take out the wiggles in the cast without causing the fly
to drag
Slack
line cast key words may be used by your
instructor during the session
- shoot
line into the forward cast
- wiggle
rod tip from side to side
Double-haul
cast
Double-haul
cast uses:
- to
achieve distance
- casting
into a headwind
- these
ends are achieved by increasing line speed and increasing rod loading -
i.e. increasing the bend in the rod
Double-haul
Limitations:
- can
be difficult to learn this cast
Double-haul
concepts:
- 4
learning steps:
- false
cast with hands together
- haul
into forward cast and shoot line
- haul
into back cast
- bring
line hand back to meet rod hand,
- let
line fall on ground or onto water
- check
that line falls in a straight line.
- put
it all together; haul on back cast, hands together, haul on forward
cast, shoot line
- up
/ down elbow movement
- rod
'drift'
Double-haul
key words may be used by your instructor during the session
Double-haul
faults
Don't
try to learn to double-haul until you can perform the basic overhead
cast.
- slack
line between hand and stripping ring; caused by a
weak back cast, or failure to 'give back' line on the back cast - by
moving line hand up to the rod hand - at the correct time.
- rod
and line hand not together at start of forward cast;
cure by practicing back cast with both hands touching
- hauling on forward cast
too late / early; haul should be made
during the 'acceleration to a stop' / 'power snap'.
- hauling
on back cast too late / early; haul should be made
during the 'acceleration to a stop' / 'power snap'.
Single
haul into the forward cast:
Uses:
- to
cope with a headwind - wind blowing onto your face
- single
hauls increase line speed
- single
hauls increase rod loading - i.e. increase the bend in the rod
Single
haul into the back cast:
Uses:
- to
cope with a tailwind - wind blowing onto your back
- single
hauls increase line speed
- single
hauls increase rod loading - i.e. increase the bend in the rod
Leaders
If
you use the
clinch knot to tie your fly to the tippet (line at end of the tapered
leader), five turns will hold with
materials down to 4X. But with
smaller diameter tippets, five turns does not give a knot with
sufficient bulk. Use the following X+2 rule with small diameter tippets.
| Tippet X rating |
Clinch knot turns |
| 1X |
5 turns |
| 2X |
5 turns |
| 3X |
5 turns |
| 4X |
5 turns |
| 5X |
X+2=7 turns |
| 6X |
X+2=8 turns |
| 7X |
X+2=9 turns |